Why Your Induction Cooktop Won’t Heat: Simple Fixes That Work
Your induction cooktop won’t turn on or heat your pan. You’re hungry, frustrated, and searching for answers. Don’t worry. Most heating problems have simple fixes you can do yourself.
This guide shows you exactly why your cooktop stopped working and how to fix it fast.
How Induction Cooktops Create Heat
Induction cooktops work differently than gas or electric stoves. They don’t generate heat directly. Instead, they use magnetic fields to create heat inside your cookware.
When you turn on an induction burner, it sends an electric current through a copper coil. This coil sits under the glass surface. The current creates a magnetic field that reaches up through the glass.
This magnetic field only works with magnetic pots and pans. The field causes molecules in your cookware to vibrate rapidly. This vibration creates heat directly in the pan bottom. The cooktop surface stays cool.
No magnetic cookware means no heat. This basic principle explains many heating problems.
Top Reasons Your Induction Cooktop Won’t Heat
Wrong Type of Cookware
This causes most heating problems. Induction cooktops need magnetic cookware to work.
Your pots and pans must contain iron or steel. Aluminum, copper, and glass cookware won’t heat on induction burners. Some stainless steel works, but not all types.
Test your cookware with a simple magnet. Hold a refrigerator magnet to the pan bottom. If it sticks firmly, the pan will work. If it falls off or barely holds, you need new cookware.
Even compatible pans can fail if the bottom is warped, dirty, or too small for the burner.
Pan Size Doesn’t Match Burner
Induction cooktops have sensors that detect pan size. Your pan must cover enough of the burner surface to activate heating.
Most cooktops need at least 60-80% coverage of the cooking zone. A small pan on a large burner often won’t heat at all. The cooktop thinks nothing is there.
Use pans that match your burner sizes. Center your cookware properly over the cooking zone.
Cooktop Is in Demo Mode
Many new induction cooktops come with a demo mode. This setting lets stores display the controls without actually heating.
Demo mode makes everything look normal. The display lights up. Buttons respond. But no heat comes from the burners.
Check your user manual for how to exit demo mode. Usually, you press and hold specific buttons for several seconds. The exact combination varies by brand.
Brands like Frigidaire, GE, Samsung, and Bosch all have demo mode options.
Control Lock Is Active
Child lock or control lock features prevent accidental changes. When active, the cooktop won’t respond to most button presses.
Look for a lock icon on your display. Check for a key symbol or “LOC” message.
Unlock by pressing and holding the lock button for 3-5 seconds. Some models need you to press two buttons simultaneously.
Power Supply Problems
Induction cooktops need significant electrical power. Most require dedicated 240-volt circuits with 40-50 amp breakers.
Check your circuit breaker panel. Look for any tripped breakers. A partially tripped breaker looks like it’s in the “on” position but sits between on and off.
Reset by switching the breaker fully off, then back on. If it trips again immediately, you have a wiring problem that needs professional help.
Power fluctuations or low voltage can also prevent heating. This happens more in older homes or during peak usage times.
Dirty or Damaged Glass Surface
The glass cooktop surface needs to be clean and intact. Residue between the glass and your pan disrupts the magnetic field.
Spills, grease, and burnt food can block proper heating. Even a thin layer of grime makes a difference.
Cracks or chips in the glass surface also interfere with heating. Damaged glass changes how the magnetic field reaches your cookware.
Overheating Protection Activated
Induction cooktops have built-in safety features. If the unit gets too hot, it shuts down automatically to prevent damage.
This happens when you cook on high heat for extended periods. Poor ventilation makes it worse. Blocked air vents underneath the cooktop cause overheating too.
The cooktop needs to cool down before it works again. This usually takes 15-30 minutes. Some models display an “H” for hot or an error code.
Faulty Cooking Zone
Individual burners can fail while others keep working. A burned-out coil or damaged circuit board causes this.
If one zone never heats but others work fine, that specific burner likely needs repair. This requires professional service or part replacement.
Incorrect Settings
Some cooktops have special functions that prevent normal heating. Timer mode, keep-warm settings, or pause features can make it seem like the cooktop won’t heat.
Check your display for any active timers or special modes. Cancel these functions and try heating again.
Quick Fixes to Try First
Start with these simple steps before calling for service:
Test your cookware. Use the magnet test on every pan. Replace non-magnetic pots and pans with induction-compatible ones.
Clean the surface thoroughly. Wipe the glass top with a damp cloth. Use a cooktop cleaner for stubborn residue. Make sure both the glass and pan bottom are completely clean and dry.
Check all settings. Turn the cooktop completely off. Unplug it or switch off the circuit breaker for 30 seconds. This resets the electronics. Turn power back on and try again.
Match pan to burner size. Use larger pans or smaller burners. Make sure your cookware covers at least two-thirds of the cooking zone.
Look for error codes. Your display might show letters or numbers. Check your manual to decode these messages. They often point to specific problems.
Verify the pan is flat. Set your pan on a flat surface. Look for gaps under the edges. Warped pans won’t heat properly.
When You Need Professional Help
Some problems need expert repair. Call a qualified appliance technician if:
- Multiple burners don’t heat after troubleshooting
- The cooktop shows persistent error codes
- Circuit breakers trip repeatedly
- You see visible damage to the glass surface
- The control panel doesn’t respond at all
- Strange noises come from under the cooktop
- You smell burning or see smoke
Electrical problems and internal component failures require professional diagnosis. Don’t try to repair internal parts yourself. This risks electric shock and can void your warranty.
Keep Your Cooktop Working Right
Prevent future heating problems with regular care:
Use only flat-bottomed, magnetic cookware. Store pans carefully to prevent warping.
Clean spills immediately after the surface cools. Burnt-on food becomes harder to remove and affects performance.
Keep ventilation areas clear. Don’t block air vents under or around the cooktop.
Avoid dragging pans across the glass. Lift and place cookware gently to prevent scratches.
Have an electrician verify your power supply during installation. Proper voltage prevents many problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my induction cooktop turn on but not heat?
Your cookware probably isn’t magnetic or doesn’t cover enough of the burner. Test pans with a magnet and use larger pots that match burner size. Demo mode or control lock can also cause this issue.
Can I use regular pans on an induction cooktop?
Only if they’re magnetic. Stainless steel and cast iron work. Aluminum, copper, and standard glass don’t work. Test each pan with a refrigerator magnet before buying or using it.
How do I reset my induction cooktop?
Turn off the cooktop completely. Switch off the circuit breaker or unplug the unit for 30 seconds. Turn power back on. This clears most electronic glitches and error codes.
Why does my induction cooktop keep turning off?
Overheating protection likely kicked in. The cooktop also shuts off if it detects no pan, a pan that’s too small, or non-magnetic cookware. Let it cool for 30 minutes before trying again.
What does the error code on my induction cooktop mean?
Error codes vary by brand and model. Check your owner’s manual for specific codes. Common codes indicate overheating, power problems, or sensor malfunctions that may need professional service.